My next installment of Portland Neighborhood Maps hits close to [my first] home – South Waterfront. I moved to South Waterfront in the summer of 2010. South Waterfront was one of those areas that was created out of “nothing” in the mid-2000s. Most of the high-rises were just being finished as the economy tanked in 2008 and all development and business expansion came grinding to a halt. By 2010, a couple of the condo buildings in South Waterfront were still pretty vacant and there were several real estate auctions. No pressure. I bought one, sight unseen.
My first couple of years in South Waterfront, the neighborhood was quiet. I would mostly just take the streetcar into downtown or walk through no man’s land to Waterfront Park and across the river. Then things started changing. The Elizabeth Caruthers park was finished. I joined the community garden by the river. The farmers market opened. A pedestrian bridge over I5 opened. Little Big Burger arrived. There went the neighborhood.
SoWa still has a long way to go to get that unique lived-in feeling, but as my “first” grownup neighborhood, I’m rooting for them. South Waterfront is officially part of the South Portland neighborhood. When I was designing my map, I debated about how close to zoom in. I ended up deciding to show the tangle of highways and onramps as it’s a big part of what boxes in this little neighborhood. Highways to the west and river to the east.
Here’s my mapped guide to favorite places in South Waterfront!
Eat, Drink, Shop, Explore:
Bambuza – A practically ancient restaurant, in Portland years, Bambuza has been in South Waterfront since 2008. They serve up consistently delicious Vietnamese food. Order the banh mi sandwich and fresh rolls.
3682 SW Bond Ave [Hours: Monday - Saturday 11am - 9pm]
Rip City Grill & Moody Food Carts – There’s a reason this place is slammed at lunch time. Everyone raves about the tri-tip steak sandwich, thankfully Clint also makes an awesome portobello burger with caramelized onions and blue cheese.
Docks at Moody Ave & Abernathy St [Hours: Monday - Friday 10am - 2pm]
Little Big Burger – The long-awaited South Waterfront location of this Portland burger empire finally opened in 2013. As long as you don’t hit it during the OHSU lunch rush between 11-1 it’s a great bet.
3704 SW Bond Ave [Hours: 11am - 9pm daily]
Lovejoy Bakers – A Pearl district favorite since 2010, seeing a bakery finally land in this area (in May of 2014) is perfect. Since South Waterfront still lacks a grocery store, I can see them staying pretty busy from SoWa locals and the constant stream of OHSU employees.
3159 SW Moody Ave [Hours: 6am - 6pm daily]
Daily Cafe at the Tram - Nothing fancy here. It’s a solid lunch option and quick place to grab a coffee or a chai before you jump on the Streetcar.
3355 SW Bond Ave [Hours: Monday - Friday 7am - 5pm]
The Old Spaghetti Factory – Before Portland was the foodie paradise it is today, Old Spaghetti Factory was fine dining. While not its original location (which opened in 1969 at SW 2nd Ave & SW Pine St in downtown) , OSF has been holding down the fort in “South Waterfront” since before it was called South Waterfront (1984?)! It’s still worth a visit for the nostalgia, river view location and when you have kids in tow. Order the mizithra cheese!
715 SW Bancroft St
Greanleaf Juicing Co - One of South Waterfront’s newest additions, Greanleaf is in the Emery building by the tram. As you would expect by the name, they offer up veggie and fruit-packed juices and smoothies, and some lighter items like soup and granola bowls.
3151 SW Moody Ave [Hours: Monday - Thursday 7am - 7pm, Friday 7am - 6pm, Saturday - Sunday 9am - 6pm]
South Waterfront Farmers Market - The farmers market opened in 2012 and was a welcome addition to this supermarket-less neighborhood. Every year it gets a little bit bigger!
Elizabeth Caruthers Park [Hours: Thursdays 2 - 7pm - June to October]
Frank Wine and Flower - Another 2014 addition to SoWa, this inconspicuous little shop is a wine bar meets gift shop and is pretty adorable.
3712 SW Bond Ave [Hours: Sunday - Monday 12 - 8pm, Tuesday - Thursday 11am - 9pm, Friday - Saturday 11am - 10pm]
Urbana Market – an almost-yuppy convenience store. It’s tiny, but saves the day when you need something basic for a recipe, or a snack, or a $5 bottle of wine.
3550 SW River Pkwy
South Waterfront Greenway & Osprey Nest - A few years ago this was a great grassy stretch to walk and sit by the river, with a few DIY trails down to the water. It’s currently under construction to add in retaining walls, restoring the river bank, adding water access etc. Probably a smart idea to support the growing neighborhood. Expected completion winter 2014. It’s bordered on the north by the Dahlia field a great place to get giant gorgeous flowers, which I’m guessing won’t be here too many more years with all the new development. And was bordered to the south by the Community Garden (which is now planning to be developed as “Block 37″ a 6-story apartment building), which has now been moved closer to Macadam.
Elizabeth Caruthers Park - The park is named after a pioneer woman, who was a fascinating note in history (1850 Donation Act, a woman – married or not – had the same property rights as a man). Finished in 2010, the park is home to a bocce court, hilly grass, a short boardwalk and some neat fountains. Summer movies in the park, a few concerts, a cider festival, and the weekly farmers market keep the park busy – in the summer months at least.
3508 SW Moody Ave [Hours: 5am - midnight daily]
Waterfront Trail - Perfect for running and biking, the trail starts by the old trolley station at Moody and Bancroft St. It follows the river all the way through Willamette Park and the Sellwood bridge, where you can cross and connect with the Springwater Trail to either loop north up to the Eastbank Esplanade or towards East Portland.
Go By Bike - I think the only transportation option we’re missing now in SoWa is boating (the shipyard doesn’t count until they offer us boat rides). There’s now a massive bike valet at the base of the tram, also repairs and bike rental.
SW Moody & SW Gibbs [Hours: Monday - Friday 6am - 6:45pm]
-Cha! Cha! Cha! – another Portland chain that is promising to open sometime in June.
-Tilikum Crossing Bridge- Despite the boring name, we will all be happy when it opens in the fall of 2015. The pedestrian and transit bridge will bring much needed access to the east side of the river.
-Rumors of a pub opening in the fall in the old Soho sushi place.
PS. If you missed my first mapped guide, it was Hosford Abernethy (& Ladd’s Addition).
Exiting the metro on our first night in Valencia, we navigated through the tiny streets of the Mercat and El Carmen neighborhood. We seemed to be the only ones on the street. It felt a little post-apocalyptic, walking past abandoned lots, half crumbling buildings that didn’t even look to be under construction, and shuttered business with roll-down doors. This will all look different tomorrow I thought. And then we rounded a corner and saw our first (of many) Valencia street art.
There are several high-profile artists from Valencia (here’s a bigger list). Escif and Hyuro were two that I was able to start recognizing from their style. From our first night in Valencia, it became a fun surprise to round a corner in the old town and come across an amazing piece of art or graffiti or whatever you want to call it. I am by no means an expert on street art, but here are some of my favorites while in the city.
Horse and snails on Carrer de Sant Dionis
Cat on Carrer de Salvador Giner
Aerobik Karaoke – bunnies and banana on Carrer de la Corona
Hyuro – wolves and cars on the south side of the Central Market
More Hyuro street art – Gentrification – on Carrer de les Carabasses
Distraerse (distracted) – more Hyuro near El Mercat
Escif in Plaza del Tossal in El Carmen, Valencia
The neighboring wall – Moses with Euro and Dollar tablets and the most terrifying facial hair.
Colorful street art didn’t seem as common as the contrast-heavy thoughtful pieces, which made some of these colorful lighter pieces stand out.
More colorful pieces in El Carmen
The size of this one on the side of a building on Carrer de Sant Miguel
Nothing fancy here, just a fun look at how the rolldown shop doors are used for advertising and graffiti when not rolled up for daytime business.
Kind of a strangely interesting one on Carrer de Guillem de Castro
Fairy tale graffiti in el Carmen
One of three fast food pieces – hip! hop! don’t stop!
“From here to fame” pizza
The Fast Food series by Escif
near Plaza de la Merce
Thanks to Instagram, I was able to learn who some of these pieces were created by. I tagged them #valencia and #streetart and then got a few comments from strangers identifying the pieces as as Escif etc.
I don’t believe in “once in a lifetime” trips.
First, “once in a lifetime” suggests you’re not traveling again. That’s 100% un-fun. Second, it sets ridiculous expectations of perfection. Travel can be tiring and silly, and confusing, but so amazing. Yes, that quote about travel being “the journey not the destination…” applies quite nicely. Third, every moment is “once in a lifetime” is it not? And we’ve come full circle…
One of things taking a round the world trip taught me about myself is that while I love playing tourist and seeing the major sights (hey, they’re sights for a reason!), I prefer to go at a slower pace. Trying to see one big “sight” in the morning and one in the afternoon is a nice strategy. And if I don’t end up there, that’s fine too. Can you see most of the major sites in many cities in three days? Yes. It’s possible to whip through many of them. Instead, I like to say “I’ll see it next time!”. If you think about what you really want to see, experience, eat etc., it makes travel more easy going. If you have time for more, great. If not, even better, see it next time!
With 3 days in Madrid, our goal was to do a lot of wandering, eating, with a bit of museums and sights thrown in.
Day 1: Europe from the west coast can be a long trip. After a 4 hour layover in NYC, (yay for a United Club pass!), and then an overnight flight, we arrived in Madrid in the late morning. By the time we got to the metro, transfers, to Sol, and then walked to our hotel, there was no worry about being able to check-in early. We often stay our first night of a longer trip at a hotel. It’s nice to not having check-in issues be a worry, and to be able to get in, nap, shower, and feel a little refreshed. Then, the move to an Airbnb etc the next day is a quick adventure, and not at all stressful.
After a quick nap, we headed to Plaza Mayor for a cafe con leche and people watching. On my first visit to Madrid in 2008, I did a free walking tour (“free”, but you tip), and really enjoyed the opportunity to just follow and listen vs navigating. This time, I played tour guide and we did a less structured walk, reading about specific places (parks/squares/history) in the guide book . I ended up bringing the same little Lonely Planet Madrid Encounter guide I used last time I was here, that I bought in a used bookstore here in Madrid! I enjoy have a tiny tangible book with a few maps. It’s especially nice when I’m traveling sans-Internet and when my phone battery is low. These days, I don’t use guidebooks for restaurant/bar recommendations anyway, but places like the Prado and barrios aren’t going anywhere, so a book from 2007 still felt acceptably current.
It was the first day of spring and perfect to be wandering the streets of Madrid in a cardigan. Some trees were already blooming, while others with little buds just ready to pop. We stumbled across Mercado de San Miguel, and popped in for a wander and ended up getting some tapas, a dessert, cervezas and then a mandarin orange for the road. We went through Plaza Isabella II and then headed toward Plaza de Oriente by the Royal Palace (Palacio Real) where the sun was beginning to set, and up to the hill by the Templo de Debod.
It got cool pretty quickly after the sun set, so we walked through Plaza de Espana, grabbed a bocadillo (cheap and tasty sandwich, my favorite are with spanish tortilla inside) and back to our hotel in Plaza de San Martin. Later we went out for asian fusion tapas at StreetXO. It’s on the roof of the El Corte Ingles, as part of their “Gourmet Experience” area. We didn’t have the highest expectations, since it seemed kind of “food court”-ish, but it ended up being one of my favorite meals in Madrid.
Day 2: We started the day out right with cafe con leches y chocolate con churros at Chocolatería San Ginés near our hotel. If you have a sweet tooth, this is can’t miss. We followed up breakfast with a tiny bit of window shopping at a few bookstores and Lots of Colors, which appears to be Decathlon’s colorful small shop concept. Super fun.
Then it was time to check out of our hotel and head over to our Airbnb. I’d been looking forward to this place, based on the pictures, and it didn’t disappoint! So much has changed in the last few years, in the travel space, when it comes to lodging. I’m still amazed sometimes when I think about how cool it is that you can stay in a flat like this in center of Madrid. Something you couldn’t have done 5 years ago unless you were renting for much longer, or had a friend with the space! After checking in, I really could have just stayed in the flat the rest of the day. ;) But come on, we were in Madrid, so that would be silly.
After a little downtime we headed out towards the museum area (Prado, Reina Sofia, Thyssen are all out near Park Retiro). We stopped in at a coffee shop for a lunch/snack. The place was super cute, but we had one of those funny experiences of “this is totally not what I thought I was ordering” when the patatas bravas were a potato chip version. Random!
It was so fun to revisit the Centro de Arte Reina Sofía. I like museums. I like art (yes, I did just say that), but I’m not the kind of person who wants to spend six hours in a museum. So I had a good second wander through the museum. If anything, Picasso’s Guernica will make you want to learn more Spanish history and about their civil war. After we’d had our fill of aaaaht, we grabbed a coffee at the museum cafe before heading towards the Parque del Buen Retiro and stumbled across the Cuesta de Moyano bookstalls (on the south side of the botanical garden) something I missed on my first trip to Madrid. We did a lot of wandering and people watching before staking out a spot in front of the pond area for a bocadillo. After a bit more wandering, we hit up the supermercado by our place for some cheese, bread, wine, and fruit. Dinner!
Day 3: We started off day 3 in Hipsterville – Malasaña - at La Bicicleta Café for breakfast. Then we spent some time shopping and wandering in Malasaña and Chueca. In the afternoon we checked out a brewery Fábrica Maravillas (IPA in Madrid?!) did a lot more wandering around, before having tapas for dinner near our flat. After a few days in Spain, I was beginning to adjust to Spanish time. Our third day in Madrid was one of those days where you think “where did the time go?”. We didn’t really hit any big sights or museums, just a fun day filled with wandering and snacking and drinking!
Our Airbnb was just between Sol and Huertas, so we mainly wandered through Huertas during the day (and Barrio de las Letras). On my next visit, I’d like to explore that neighborhood’s nightlife a bit more. Also on my “list” for next time is wandering around the upscale Salamanca barrio.
Although this was my second [short] trip to Madrid, it still felt like a new city, in a way, since I was experiencing it with someone else.
Have you been to Madrid? What are some of your favorites? Let me know and I’ll add them to my Foursquare list.
There’s something about first arriving in a new country and falling in love with the first city you visit. Rookie mistake? It still happens to me. It’s also mentionable that the first city you visit is often a big one just by virtue that it’s also a transit hub. From my round the world trip in 2008, it wasn’t always the case: Beijing – not my favorite. Some of my lifetime favorites though are Busan (Korea), Marseille (France), and Osaka (Japan).
Something else they all have in common? Port cities! Which brings us to Porto, Portugal. Previously, I had only visited the Azores briefly, which has a completely different vibe than mainland Portugal. Exploring Portugal has been on my “list” for a while. I snagged a ridiculous flight deal in November for $437 roundtrip from Portland to Madrid. That sealed the deal on spending a week exploring, before settling down in Valencia, Spain for a month.
I fell in love with Porto immediately. I was so glad we didn’t bypass the city like so many travel sites and books had inadvertently “recommended” (by saying to only add it as Day 14 if you have 2 weeks etc.) Porto has the kind of windy streets that you could wander for hours (or years). Our lovely Airbnb host recommended her favorite port lodge across the river (Taylor’s), and away we went for the rest of the day – meandering the hilly streets of the city, trying port wine from the Douro Valley, and taking in our first truly sunny spring day.
On our second day in the country we set off for Coimbra – by car. As you can imagine, driving in Portugal is an adventure. We decided to skip the the new-fangled GPS in favor of the old fashioned way of navigating (stars and maps!). Portugal is kind of the birthplace of navigators (well by sea anyway). We made a few wrong turns along the way, but with nowhere to be it added to the adventure. I can imagine this would be a terrible strategy during the height of travel season in the summer though. Coimbra is one of Europe’s oldest college towns and definitely worth a day of your time if you have a week in Portugal.
One of the reasons we decided to rent a car in Portugal was to have the option to see some of the little towns between the big city sights of Lisbon and Porto. You can reach most place by train or bus, but it was fun to be a bit more spontaneous about where to stop. We ended up not making as many stops from our idea list, and settled on Nazare – home of big waves, epic wind, and a quaint market where we found picnic supplies. Our second stop was Óbidos - a walled castle town that has seen the Romans, Moors, and finally Portugal as its occupiers.
After visiting the smaller towns in central Portugal, it felt quite different rolling into Cascais. What was once an old fishing village is most certainly a resort town, even if the Algarve gets more attention these days. In shoulder-season, it was a great budget place to spend the night and not hard to imagine the beaches covered with people come August.
We started the morning at Boca do Inferno (Portuguese for “Mouth of Hell”). Then we drove the coastal loop up to Cabo da Roca, the most western mainland point in Europe. We continued the loop into Sintra to visit the Pena palace and walk the garden grounds. This place is like Disneyland for castle buffs, and I’m glad we decided to just focus on one main sight. We ended the day with a short, but suspenseful drive into Lisbon to return our rental car at the airport. After navigating the metro back into Lisbon, we settled in at our Airbnb flat and went out for a celebratory beer and sunset (yay! We didn’t crash the rental car!)
Our first full day in Lisbon, we spent walking up and down the streets of our neighborhood in Bairro Alto, around Chiado and down to Baixa. Don’t worry, we stopped at least every two hours for a cafe and pastel de nata (a custard tart pastry).
We continued our pastry and coffee routine the following day. Strolling the Alfama neighborhood in the afternoon, then doing a bit of shopping and having a deliciously expensive fresh seafood dinner up the street at Sea Me.
The last day in Portugal, we visited the seafaring part of Lisbon – Belem and spent a deal of time reading and learning more about Portugal’s history. Don’t worry, we took breaks for coffee, pastries, and sampling Portugal’s wine.
Our week in Portugal sped by, and we by no means did it justice with enough time. On my next visit, I want to explore the southern coast of Portugal, spend more time in Porto, and see more of the central region. One thing we did right within our short timeline was having the one night stays at the beginning of the trip, as it was nice to be able to “relax” at the end with three nights in Lisbon. I would recommend two nights in Porto though.
This spring, I’m testing my annual “Live + Work Remotely” goal with an international experiment. Stay tuned for more updates about my time in Portugal and living in Valencia, Spain.
When I signed up for this race in January, I registered for the 8k. Friends ended up registering for the 15k and since it was free to change distances later – and peer pressure of training with friends is more fun – I opted for the 15k version!
Unlike my first half marathon, in the weeks leading up to the race I was a lot more nervous about my training – or lack there of. I felt like I’d not put in enough distance in my long runs. Most of the weekends that I should have been doing some longer runs were spent hiking, snowshoeing, and then it actually snowed here in Portland. What made me most nervous about this race was that it was hilly. I don’t spend a lot of time running hills, beyond the tiny “hills” in Laurelhurst Park. With 550 feet elevation gain – most of that over a couple of miles up to OHSU and Terwilliger – I was feeling a little intimidated! The course was 2 miles flat, 2 miles slight uphill, 2 miles super upperhill, and then 3 miles downhill.
Race day ended up being perfect weather for March. We got there just in time to use the porta-potties and hop the fence into our pace group. Most of us split up into different pace groups, but my friend Julie and I stuck together. This was also my first race running with someone that I knew, and while we stuck together for about the first mile and a half, I dropped back because I knew the pace was a little too ambitious for me pre-hill! The hill ended up being uncomfortable and tough, but a bit more manageable than I’d built it up to be in my head. I felt like I did a really good job of moderating my pace up front, so by the time I got to the top of the hill, I sped up quite a bit. And now I know for the future that I can push myself a bit more on the hills.
My Shamrock Run Pace – 1:35 (10:13 pace)
I also did a bit better at running the course more efficiently than I did with my half. Nike+ ended at 9.5 (15k is 9.32 miles) so a 10:03 pace unofficially.
What: Adidas Shamrock Run 15k
When: Sunday, March 16, 2014
Where: Waterfront Park to Terwilliger – Portland, Oregon
Overall, I really enjoyed the Shamrock Run. It was a really well done event, and a fun way to kick off the new year to have something to train for. And for the price, it was also a good value. I can see myself running this one again.
Shamrock Run also coincided with my one year running anniversary. I’m amazed at how much I’ve improved in the last year. I went from run/walking 12 minute miles to cutting about 2 minutes/mile off my pace for this hilly 15k. What a difference a year makes, when you’re a beginner!
Check out my Running page for more info on races and how I started running.