Driving, Surfing, and Driving

April 5, 2008

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The day of unfun… Today was Kyle’s day off. So Lester (the “surf legend” and resident curmudgeon) took us out for the day. Turns out Lester is an old codger and it felt like we did more driving around than surfing. We finally stopped at a spot, but the waves were brutal. I wasn’t even enjoying myself. Lester is totally old school, “You boys head out to the right on the hard boards and you girls stay in the whitewash with the soft boards.” After lunch, we headed out for more driving, I mean surfing. We ended up stopping at another big wave area. So I didn’t have the best day, I was just getting beat up by the waves and I didn’t feel like I was being taught anything. He just stood there on the beach and stared at everyone. I miss Kyle. His sexual innuendos get a little annoying after a few hours (imagine an Aussie version of Beavis), but at least he teaches you to surf!

We cut the afternoon short and headed to the local bar. Not much surfing lessons today, more like “you girls stand like ballerinas on your boards.” I felt like smacking him in the head with my board! The one thing I was doing right was my stance. I actually told the old codger that I snowboard, and that shut him up a little bit. :)

Hot showers are so amazing after a day of surfing, so is food. The basic necessities of life, I guess. After dinner we chatted around the “campfire” and Rosco played guitar. He learned “Country Road” for me, so I was forced to sing it. Oh and I learned that Kyle is 36. I guessed his age at exactly 36 and I thought he was going to fall off the picnic table in shock. I’m not sure why it’s so hard for people to guess ages, you just have to look at their face and eyes, (please note: wearing a beanie and surfing doesn’t make you look 25).