Today was our first full day of surfing. After breakfast, we drove out to the campground (that they used to use as base camp) and started surfing. Today is much better than yesterday. All of the paddling is still tiring, but I feel like I’m actually accomplishing something. The waves are milder here. After a few hours we breaked for lunch. Surfing makes me insanely hungry. I’m craving Mexican food, big time, but I feel like that’s all I ever write about. After lunch we laid out for a bit and relaxed before going back in for a few hours.
It seems like everyone who isn’t American has seen “Team America: World Police.” It’s a funny movie, (although a very typical Matt Stone and Trey Parker creation). So my nickname here is “America,” as in the line from the movie: “America, F%$K yeah.” So every time I catch a wave Kyle’s fists are in the air and he’s shouting “America, F$#K yeah!” Anyway, I was really proud of my efforts this afternoon. I even picked out my own wave, instead of just waiting for the “go now, go, go” yells.
By five o’clock we were all exhausted and headed back to camp for showers and dinner.